No announcement yet.

WTF did I get myself into....

  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #46
    The spring appears to serve the function of Part 9 of your attached photo. My faucet doesn't have a piece like that. Here are requested pictures. image1-1.jpgimage1-2.jpgimage1-3.jpgimage1-4.jpg

    And a progress shot.


    • #47
      Up to you what you want to do, but part 9 is the faucet shaft, that along with attached washer, seal beer in faucet, moving tap handle (which is attached to lever) moves part 9. The faucet bonnet is as close to the spring, tightening faucet bonnet causes friction on lever which holds the faucet shaft closed, keeping beer in. All the spring does is help you close tap, really not needed. So is there a washer that I noted as flat washer? It should be a super flat washer (not "O" ring or neoprene washer).
      You should just replace faucet, shank and beer line, this should solve all your problems. right now we are just going in circles.
      Can you post picture of the bottom of coupler (just like you are looking up to beer line).
      Attached Files


      • #48
        First let me say the bar looks great. Love the dual big screens, and the brick work accents the workwork nicely.

        Plain to see you put some time and money into this project. So it stands to reason that you will not be wasting any more time with these sub-standard faucets. I've never seen or heard of this spring set up either. But it takes little reason to imagine that when introduced into beer flow they will make for an agitating process which allows co2 to rapidly be released or as I like to call it foam. I'd suggest Perlick or some other top of the line faucet belongs on a bar of this caliber. Get a MM shank to go with it and proper length beer line and tower cooler. Just rebuilt the top half of your system to premium standards and be done with it. Dad always said do something right the 1st time and there won't be a 2nd.

        Just my 2 cents.


        • #49
          Thanks Everyone, I really do appreciate all the comments and advice. PVS6, Thank you for your kind words on the bar. My Father in law says the pictures don't even do it justice, he says you lose the fine details in grain of the Black Walnut in the pictures.

          Anyways. Back to the Kegs... I've been looking at the Perlick faucets, 630 SS specify, Will this fit on the MM 304 SS Elbow Shank? 404 - File or directory not found.

          I'm thinking I'll get 10' of beer line and SS tail pieces and SS wing nut. That would only leave the stock coupler as the remaining piece of "Avantco" or what ever brand it is equipment remaining beyond the tower and the refrigerator unit.


          • #50
            Yep perfect fit. U.S. parts have a standard they all adhere to. The coupler will likely not be a problem with the one you have. But I do really like the one I got here. It actually sit slightly below the lip of a 1/2 barrel.

            D System - Keg Coupler - Low Profile
            Price: $75.25
            Stock: In Stock
            Item #: FT44T-PR

            Some reason I can't post that link.

            Black walnut sweet grain. C-grats, Dad's right I thought Black oak with a walnut stain. What's the bullnose made from?
            Last edited by pvs6; 05-05-2015, 06:19 PM.


            • #51
              The lower back bar cabinets are pine with walnut stain, the arm rail is maple with two coats of walnut stain, the rest is all black walnut with Danish oil, everything gets a coat of Polly tomorrow. The bar top has two coats of Polly already.


              • #52
                Ok Ordered:

                2 x Perlick 630ss Faucets
                2 x MM 304 Elbow Shank SS
                2 x 3/16" ID SS tail pieces
                2 x SS Wing nut
                2 x Neoprene washer
                2 x Faucet coupling washer (they said MM faucets come with the washer but not sure about the Perlicks so if so I'll just have some spares)
                4 x 3/16" ID plastic hose clamps
                25 feet 3/16" ID beer line
                1 x Tower cooler


                • #53
                  I have never had to replace Faucet coupling washer, but if somehow the faucet doesn't have one then sure, the neoprene washer is the one you might need more of. The main mistake people make is putting the neoprene washer it the place where Faucet coupling washer goes.


                  • #54
                    My order from MM came in today, Faucets will be in tomorrow, not sure when the tower cooler will be in.


                    • #55
                      Ok so everything came in except for the tower cooler. Removing the stock elbow shank was a bitch but I got it done. Installed the new shank which is now super easy to remove. Installed the new 10' lines, tail pieces, and Perlick Faucets. Initial pour is about a half a glass of foam and then nice golden beer. After that I can pour beer after beer with about a inch or so of foam.

                      So to close the loop on my foam issues with Avantco Kegerator.... New Regulator is a must, new Faucet is a must, 10' lines and shank was Probable.


                      • #56
                        Once you round it out with the tower cooler and maybe a small P.C. fan in the box even your 1st pours will be acceptable.


                        • #57
                          I can guarantee the stock faucet would work perfectly IF you took out the spring (meant for Steve Rodgers pre-serum, since he couldn't close faucet without spring) and done what I said, did you take it apart to see how parts break down and see if any other extra parts?
                          To say the shank "probable" is just a guess, I will tell you something is seriously wrong with some of the stock shanks, either the ID is wrong size or inside is not smooth enough, don't know, but to say shank "might" be the problem is just guessing. In your case everything is probable since you replaced everything, though I will concur with replacing that stupid regulator, any regulator that has NO means to adjust by increments of PSI and by guesswork needs to be replaced.
                          Did you remove shank as I posted in my newbie thread? I find it way easier to get it off than it is to get it on (straight) and how did you make it "super easy to remove"?
                          Last edited by KillianBoy; 05-10-2015, 03:22 PM.


                          • #58
                            "I can guarantee the stock faucet would work perfectly IF you took out the spring" - I did take the spring out and try it. It didn't work. I still got just as much foam. But that was prior to changing out the lines and shank. I wasn't going to put the stock faucet back on after replacing the lines and shank since I already had the Perlicks in hand.

                            "did you take it apart to see how parts break down and see if any other extra parts" - Yes, nothing was extra. They just send lots of extra washers and gaskets. The only thing I missed was the check value on the coupler.

                            "In your case everything is probable" - I would disagree, I would say 100% the faucet needed replaced. The Perlick when closed has a much firmer seal. The Stock faucet it felt like you could just blow on it and it would open without the spring. The Perlick actually seats in a forward position and requires a small amount of pressure to open.

                            "Did you remove shank as I posted in my newbie thread?" - Yes the first one had to be removed by first loosening the nut by twisting on the faucet. The second was actually just finger tight to begin with.

                            "how did you make it "super easy to remove"?" - I didn't make it Super easy to remove, MM did. With the wrench I ordered from them its super easy to tighten down the nut. The issue with the stock one was the nylon spacer between the nut and the tower was preventing the wrench from getting a good bite on the nut to turn it.

                            The bottom line, I don't regret spending the extra money on replacing all these parts. I'm right at or slightly over what the cost of the cheapest unit was on Amazon and I might have had to spend money replacing parts on it anyways.

                            My next step will be installing the tower cooler, checking to see if the Kegerator still holds temp, and then replacing the stock foam insulation in the tower. The stock foam leaves a gap between the insulation and the tower itself. I want it to be tight to the tower walls with a large diameter hole in the center for the line and cooling tube to run through and enough space for air to flow back down.


                            • #59
                              Tower cooler installed and blowing cold air right on the shank. Will check back on it in a few hours. The foam insulation was very hard to push back in. I'm going to see if its adequate now with the large air line running in the tower next to the beer line.


                              • #60
                                Tower cooler has been running for 24+ hours now. The tower is very cold to the touch. But my temp inside the unit has crept up to 43... I've turned the thermostat down a little, we'll see if it gets back down to the previous range. 37-40.